What to Cook This Weekend

Try Gabrielle Hamilton’s sous-chef salad, a take on a classic French salade composée.

By Sam Sifton

Good morning. “I don’t question that the greatest meal salad of all time, the chef salad, was created by a chef,” Gabrielle Hamilton wrote for The New York Times Magazine this week. “The combination of textures and flavors is consummately professional. Sometimes people mistake the salad bowl for a lawless place of disorganized and mismatched ingredients, chopped up and thrown in — dried cranberries on top of pumpkin seeds on top of soggy corn — which offends even me, who stakes no strong claim to her chef bona fides. A salad nonetheless requires a bit of cheffing, a little experienced attention paid to balance, texture and restraint. Not everything tastes better with bacon bits scattered on top.”

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